Saturday, June 20, 2015

Scenes from the streets of Dakar, where the sidewalks are full of life

Dakar is a city full of energy, but that vitality does not come from its architecture: rather, it is the people who fill the city with life. Sidewalks offer a snapshot of the myriad ways in which the Senegalese turn zones of transit into bustling centers of activity. As far as I can tell, there is no pre-planned approach, they seem to expand into unoccupied areas organically. It's fascinating to observe such a rich tapestry of activities develop in a systemic yet informal manner throughout the entire city. Below are a few snapshots of how sidewalks in Dakar aren't just corridors to get pedestrians from one place to another, but a place in and of themselves.

Sidewalks are a contested area in Dakar, disputed by small stalls, cars, and artisans making and selling their wares 

People gather around a coffee stand
in the morning, and talk
Street life is the best expression I've found to describe what goes on among pedestrians. Between the many commercial activities that play out on sidewalks -- from small stalls to large displays to micro-cafes, Dakar's sidewalks are a canvas for human enterprises of various sizes. The sidewalks can be narrow bits of cement in certain areas, and wide swaths of packed dirt in others. It's hard to tell whether people are supposed to walk in the street or on sidewalks in certain parts of downtown Dakar: the commercial use of sidewalks pushes people into the street, where taxis casually honk at them while swerving around them expertly.


Here are some scenes from Dakar's lively, fascinating sidewalks, for your viewing pleasure: 

At times, I feel displaying your goods should be considered an art form


In other neighborhoods, commercial considerations clearly outweigh aesthetics



Sometimes, the sidewalk becomes your shop -- your factory, your display center, your commercial headquarters, all in one


Early on a Sunday morning, this salesman takes a nap on his suitcases in the shade, while displaying the fans he has for sale



At lunchtime, sidewalks become places where people gather to eat meals from street vendors, finding shade where they can


At night time, sidewalks remain just as busy, and the ubiquitous Nescafe stalls continue to bustling hubs of sociability


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